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Please refresh the page and retry. O n a tufty volcanic island reachable only in low tide, under a little straw roof hidden behind some bushes, I was having a massage. This was aided by the absence of the artificial smells and gonging bells ubiquitous in so many luxury hotel spas; here, just a few metres into the Indian Ocean , the soundtrack was the soft pulse of the tide and the laughter of local children as they spent a break from school combing the sand below for seaweed, a cash crop along the Swahili coast.
Their families sell it to the Chinese. It was a bustling scene, and there was a sharp divide between the calm hotel and the lively beach, a distance emphasised by a high glass wall. During the annual whale migration, in July and August, humpback whales have been sighted off the east coast. But these combine to create an exclusive paradise that can serve as hideaway, springboard for adventure, or classic beach holiday without the hordes.
A s Bongo Flava hip hop played on the radio, I left the bright villages and bumped through Ngezi, one of the last remaining areas of indigenous forest that once covered much of Pemba. Streaking past us were dozens of vervet monkeys, who swing through the double canopy, but we failed to spot the flying fox known to live in the jungle. Finally, we emerged from this wilderness at the incongruously cultivated campus of Constance Aiyana.
S tarted eight years ago as a community project by a Mauritian artist, this intimate villa property is awash in brightness. Low white-washed buildings built with locally-sourced materials including limestone and coconut look out over blonde beach and turquoise sea.
Other glass sculptures, comical giant ceramic faces and red glazed roosters pop up periodically, to give a splendid character to the property. The long turquoise coastline has nothing to mar it, save the crabs scampering across the sand, and the occasional early-morning cow, out to rake the beach. The villas are so spread out that privacy and tranquility reign; I overheard nothing for a week. B ut the world is full of paradises - indeed, the Indian Ocean hosts quite a few of the most famous.